1 Tips on taking a 3/4 front end bike picture

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Stand about 5 - 7 metres away then zoom in to fill the camera screen (this takes out the goldfish bowl effect).
Face 12 o'clock and have the bike or car facing about 7 - 8 o' clock or 4 - 5 o'clock depending on side so it shows all the detail bits you want ie number plate, headlight lights and any feature points but without looking straight and staged.
For bikes turning the handle bars and front wheel 3 - 5 of inches to the left can look good as with a cars front wheel, if nice calipres, move it forward an inch or 2 so they show. Take the picture at normal 5ft 6 head height.

Additional things to be mindful off 

Don't photograph your vehicle on the drive so the paint work chrome exhausts are full of houses, trees and other car reflections, take it out for a spin somewhere and find a nice big car park. (although I am pretty good at taking out rogue reflections) but don't worry if all that is in the back ground as I will be removing it.

Don't shoot into the sun, have the sun behind you ie shining onto the side of the car or bike your photographing, bikes always look better on the right hand side, as it leans better and generally the exhaust and air filter are nicely on display.

Don't worry if the sun is not shining, I can make it suit the sunny backdrops, but if its a cloudy backdrop anyway, then  bright cloudy day is best. Often these cloudy shots bring out the paint better as its not bleached but if you have a nice metallic paint, it looks better in the sun and would be a crime not to use. Try and get the shadow cast too even if its on another photo. Cloudy days are great because you can get both.

Try not to use a camera phone etc, ther getting better but if were going to do it, lets do it right and use or find someone with a camera that zooms in.

Always stand about 5 metres away and zoom in, this takes away the goldfish bowl look of the nearest side being big and the furthest away being much smaller.